Jerusalem Bagels from Chef Asaf Razon
When chef Asaf Razon goes back to visit his native Israel, he takes time to pick fresh hyssop in the hills and to make his own za'atar, a sesame and spice mix made of ground hyssop, an herb similar to oregano. Za'atar is often sprinkled on freshly baked breads, sambusak, cheese and labane.
It's rich, earthy flavor is something I've been eating for decades but Asaf's was unrivaled. A deep rich green color (instead of that almost army green you usually see), Asaf mixes some za'atar into a variety of his dishes, in particular the dough for his Jerusalem Bagels.
He's been tweaking this recipe for years, and his version has the remarkable but very subtle flavor of anise, achieved by dipping the bagels first in an anise simple syrup and next in a mixture of sesame seeds and fennel seeds before baking.
Baking with Asaf, he recalled the years he'd spent in Israel's top catering companies baking, grilling and overseeing events for hundreds and hundreds of people.
One thing Asaf does, much like I do on the site, is cherish the knowledge of those who have mastered a craft or technique. He brings the little tips and details with him along the way. For example, as we cooked mafrum together, he pointed out the richly colored red oil that forms at the top of the sauce. This occurs once the tomato sauce has reduced and the oil separates from the thickened tomato. An indicator the sauce is done, this was taught to him by a Libyan Jewish woman who shared the preparation with him.
Likewise, as we made Jerusalem bagels, every step along the way, Asaf shared how the dough should feel and smell. He approached the recipe like so many he develops, with patience and care...touching the oily dough and watching it spring back, being careful not to under or over proof the dough. Razon taught himself how to make phyllo dough until he got it just right, rolling out thin immense layers and spreading them across his kitchen table in the village to make turkish bourekas.
Chef Asaf brings his passion for cooking here to New York City where he works as a private chef and teacher. During his free time, he pursues his passion for food photography and spends time with his wife, exploring New York and cooking.
Asaf Razon's Za'atar flavored Jerusalem Bagels with sesame and fennel
Serving Size: Makes 8-10 bagels
Ingredients
Portioned Jerusalem Bagels before proofing Photo By: Danielle Rehfeld Colen
Jerusalem Bagels
1kg AP flour, plus extra
12 g dry active yeast (fleishman’s)
10 g salt
30 g sugar
500-600 ml warm water
2 Tbsp za’atar (optional)
3 tbsp. olive oil
For the seed mixture:
1 Cup sesame seeds
1/8 cup anise seeds
For the Syrup:
1 cup sugar
2 cups water
1 tbsp of anise/fennel seed
Instructions
For the bagels:
Mix Yeast, flour and sugar in a mixing bowl. Mix all the dry ingredients with a dough hook until they’re combined on the slowest speed. Add zaa’atar or other spices at this point if using.
Add water into center, turn speed up one notch and once the dough comes together and becomes smoother ball, about 2 minutes, add the salt, incorporate and then add the oil. Once all is combined, knead for about 5 minutes until the dough is uniform, smooth, and hard but not sticky and forms into a ball. Place in a greased bowl and cover lightly with oil. Wrap very tightly with plastic wrap and place in warm place. Allow to rest about 45 minutes or until doubled in size. Meanwhile prepare the fennel syrup and seed mixture.
Cover a sheet pan with a heavy sprinkling of flour. Turn dough out and flatten slightly into rectangle. Cut a piece off (about 150-200 g) and form into a ball. Place on sheet tray. You will form about 8-10 equally sized balls. Dust tip lightly with flour and cover with a towel. Proof until it increases in size by about 50%.
Preheat oven to 430 degrees F or 220 C. Make a hole in the dough, stretch very lightly. Pour the anise syrup into a shallow pan and add the sesame seeds and anise seeds to another shallow pan. Dip the bread in the anise and then the seeds. Place on parchment lined baking pan and place in oven. You might need to se a few pans. After 7-10 minutes, turn the pan and flip the bagels. Spray with a water or sprinkle a few small handfuls of water onto the botton of the oven to create steam. Close oven and cook until very light golden, about 7-10 more minutes.
Dip the warm bagels in za’atar, serve alone or serve with mezze.
For the Syrup:
Combine the ingredients in a small pot. Bring to boil, simmer for about 5-10 minutes until lightly green and aromatic. Allow to steep for an hour off heat. Strain into bowl.
Cook's Notes
For the bagels:
Mix Yeast, flour and sugar in a mixing bowl. Mix all the dry ingredients with a dough hook until they’re combined on the slowest speed. Add zaa’atar or other spices at this point if using.
Add water into center, turn speed up one notch and once the dough comes together and becomes smoother ball, about 2 minutes, add the salt, incorporate and then add the oil. Once all is combined, knead for about 5 minutes until the dough is uniform, smooth, and hard but not sticky and forms into a ball. Place in a greased bowl and cover lightly with oil. Wrap very tightly with plastic wrap and place in warm place. Allow to rest about 45 minutes or until doubled in size. Meanwhile prepare the fennel syrup and seed mixture.
Cover a sheet pan with a heavy sprinkling of flour. Turn dough out and flatten slightly into rectangle. Cut a piece off (about 150-200 g) and form into a ball. Place on sheet tray. You will form about 8-10 equally sized balls. Dust tip lightly with flour and cover with a towel. Proof until it increases in size by about 50%.
Preheat oven to 430 degrees F or 220 C. Make a hole in the dough, stretch very lightly. Pour the anise syrup into a shallow pan and add the sesame seeds and anise seeds to another shallow pan. Dip the bread in the anise and then the seeds. Place on parchment lined baking pan and place in oven. You might need to se a few pans. After 7-10 minutes, turn the pan and flip the bagels. Spray with a water or sprinkle a few small handfuls of water onto the botton of the oven to create steam. Close oven and cook until very light golden, about 7-10 more minutes.
Dip the warm bagels in za’atar, serve alone or serve with mezze.
For the Syrup:
Combine the ingredients in a small pot. Bring to boil, simmer for about 5-10 minutes until lightly green and aromatic. Allow to steep for an hour off heat. Strain into bowl.